A happy house housetraining your dog is focused on preventing “accidents” instead of waiting for accidents to happen. The goal is to make it easy for the puppy to do the right thing in the first place. Training in this way is faster and more effective than punishing the dog for mistakes. YOU play the most important part in the success or failure of this method — you must be patient, determined and reliable for it to work. If you already own an adult dog with housetraining problems, you can use this method to start fresh just as you would with a puppy.
Housetraining baby puppies
Baby puppies, under three months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don’t know they’re going to “go” until the moment they do! It’s not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead of time. If you’re observant, you’ll see that a puppy who’s looking for a place to go poddy will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct — he’s looking for a place that’s already been used. If he can’t find one, he’ll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you’ll teach him that the only appropriate bathroom is the one outside!
Ideally, you’re reading this before you’ve brought your new puppy home. If you already have your puppy, just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place.
Set up a dog crate or small, confined area (the smaller the better.) Using a dog crate will be more effective. The size of the crate is important — if it’s too large, the puppy will have room to use one end as a bathroom. If you’ve bought a crate for him to “grow into,” you can also get dividers to reduce the inner space while he’s small. If he must be left alone while you’re at work, then a larger crate is okay. Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can’t be home to let him out.
Puppy’s first night home
Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Set him on the grass and let him stay there until he poddies. When he does, tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at least) while he’s awake. Don’t wait for him to tell you that he has to go!
Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. Don’t let him out for half an hour and when you do, carry him outside to poddy before you do anything else. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly, others may take half an hour.
Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the puppy to the door!! This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he’ll probably have an accident before he gets there. Part of this training method is psychological — you want the puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting!
Daytime schedule
Establish a regular schedule of poddy trips and feedings. This helps you to control the times he has to go out and prevent accidents in the house. First thing in the morning — before you have your coffee — carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an hour. Feed breakfast in the crate and don’t let him out again for a half hour. Then carry him back outside for poddy. Puppies usually have a bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it.
Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so. Don’t give him free run of the house, use baby gates or close doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn’t go in. (Puppies are notorious for finding out of the way corners to have accidents in — keep him in an area where you can watch him). If you give him too much freedom too soon, he’ll probably make a mistake. After playtime, take him outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap.
Housetraining older dogs
You can use a modified puppy schedule to train an unhousetrained dog or one that’s having housetraining problems. Start from the beginning just like a puppy, use a crate and put them on a schedule. An older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods provided you take it outside at critical times — first thing in the morning, after meals and last thing at night. Until they’re reliable, get them outside every three-to-four hours in between those times.
Sudden changes in dog food brands or overindulgence in treats or table scraps can cause diarrhea. Dogs don’t need much variety in their diets so you’re not harming yours by staying to one brand of food. If you make a change, do it gradually by mixing a little of the new food with the old, gradually increasing the amount of new food every day. A sudden change of water can cause digestive upset, too. If you’re moving or traveling, take along a couple gallons of “home” water to mix with the new. Distilled water from the grocery store can also be used.
Cleaning up accidents
If you’ve worked hard with this training method, you won’t have many! Put your puppy (or adult dog) away out of sight while you clean up a puddle. Dog mothers clean up after their babies but you don’t want your puppy to think that YOU do, too! Clean up on linoleum is self-explanatory. On carpeting, get lots of paper towel and continue blotting with fresh paper until you’ve lifted as much liquid as possible.
There are several home-made and commercially available “odor killers” that are helpful. In a pinch, plain white vinegar will work to help neutralize the odor and the ammonia in the urine. (Don’t use a cleaner with ammonia – it’ll make it worse!) Sprinkle baking soda on the spot to soak up moisture and to help neutralize odor, vacuum when dry. At the pet store, you can find a good selection of products that may be more effective. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a gentle solution of lukewarm water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.
Advice for owners of male dogs
Your male puppy will begin to lift his leg between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation of his sexual drive and instinct to “mark” territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, fighting and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house, particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you’re visiting in someone else’s home. If you use your male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!
Happy housetraining your dog is not just about teaching bathroom manners—it’s about nurturing patience, love, and understanding. The more consistent and positive you remain, the quicker your dog will learn and the stronger your relationship will grow. Every small step counts toward success. Let us know in the comments how your journey of housetraining your dog is going, and share your own tips to inspire other dog owners!
Ferquently Asked Questions
What is the best way for a happy housetraining your dog?
The best way is to set a consistent routine, reward positive behavior with treats or praise, and avoid punishment. This creates trust and helps your dog learn faster.
How long does a happy housetraining your dog usually take?
On average, housetraining can take a few weeks to several months depending on your dog’s age, breed, and consistency of training. Patience is the key to long-term success.
Can older dogs also benefit from a happy housetraining your dog methods?
Yes, older dogs can be housetrained successfully. With gentle guidance, positive reinforcement, and regular schedules, even senior dogs adapt well to happy housetraining techniques.
If he’s being slow, walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get things moving, so to speak!